WULF UTIAN’S LETTER FROM CAPE TOWN MARCH 2024 WESTERN CAPE ‘INCREDIBLES’
Over the decades that I have traveled the world, I have always stored in my mind experiences I have called my ‘Incredibles,’ unique places, eye-popping beauty, memorable activities, unforgettable human interactions, sheer tranquility, an experience almost beyond belief. I presume you get what I mean. The Western Cape is blessed with an abundance of ‘Incredibles.’ This month let me share just three with you, selected for variety and their spread across the region.
My all-time top of the chart of Incredibles has to be the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in Cape Town. Yes, I know I have described this multiple times in the past, but as my favorite place in all the world, one that I am blessed to visit at least once a week while in the Southern Hemisphere, please indulge me.
From the moment one enters the Gardens through the lower gate, one is awe-struck by the scenic beauty. Sheer rocky cliffs tower over lower vistas of forest dropping down into the formal garden itself, always a riot of color independent of the season. It is virtually impossible to describe in words, just as it would be very difficult to traverse the miles of pathways in just a single visit. So let me attempt to illustrate photographically.
THE FIRST IMPRESSION OF KIRSTENBOSCH AS WE ENTER FROM THE LOWER GATE. THE VIEW STOPS YOU IN YOUR TRACKS.
TO THE LEFT OF THE ENTRANCE IS A LONG AVENUE OF GIANT CAMPHOR TREES. ON A LUCKY DAY OWLS CAN BE SEEN DOZING IN THE BRANCHES.
HIGHER UP IS A FOREST OF ANCIENT CYCADS, RELICS FROM THE TIME OF THE DINOSAURS. TOWERING ABOVE IS CASTLE ROCK. THE RAVINE TO ITS RIGHT IS SKELETON GORGE AND TO THE LEFT, NURSERY RAVINE.
SILVER TREE AND PROTEAS, A PERFECT FOREGROUND TO DEVIL’S PEAK RISING OUT OF THE FOREST.
A RELATIVELY NEW ADDITION TO KIRSTENBOSCH IS A WALKWAY CALLED THE BOOMSLANG (TREE SNAKE). WHICH ALLOWS A TRAVERSE THROUGH THE UPPER TREE CANOPY OF THE FOREST.
I ENJOY HIKING THE TRAILS BEHIND THE FORMAL GARDENS WHICH NARROW AS ONE CLIMBS UP TOWARDS THE PEAKS. THERE IS SOMETHING SPIRITUAL BEING IMMERSED IN THE FOREST.
THE FLORA IS DIVERSE. HERE IS A BEAUTIFUL GOLDEN STRELITZIA, INDIGENOUS TO THIS AREA.
LILY’S ARE A COMPONENT OF FYNBOS, THE NATURAL FLORA OF THE WESTERN CAPE.
THERE ARE MORE SPECIES OF ERICA (SCOTTISH HEATHS OR HEATHER) IN THE WESTERN CAPE THAN THE ENTIRE UNITED KINGDOM AND EUROPE COMBINED. KEWS PLANTS OF THE WORLD LISTS 860 SPECIES OF WHICH OVER 690 ARE ENDEMIC TO THE SOUTHWESTERN TIP OF AFRICA.
AND OF COURSE MULTIPLE SPECIES OF PROTEA, THE NATIONAL FLOWER OF SOUTH AFRICA.
GORGEOUS PROTEA.
FINALLY, THERE IS THE RESTAURANT FOR A DELICIOUS LUNCH OR AN AFTERNOON TEA WITH SCONES, CLOTTED CREAM, AND RASPBERRY JAM.
My second Incredible is taking a boat ride, whether a sailboat, a motorized yacht, a catamaran, whatever your fancy, from Table Bay in Cape Town central, out of the harbor, and along the seaside suburbs of Mouile Point, Sea Point, Bantry Bay, with Table Mountain and Lions Head behind, to Clifton, Camps Bay with the 12 Apostles mountains in the background, past Llandudno, and into Hout Bay. The more adventurous might go all the way around Cape Point into False Bay and explore places like Boulders, Simonstown and Kalk Bay. But that is a long excursion and be certain to know the weather before rounding the Point.
Again, photos are better than words, so here is a sampling of what to expect.
LEAVING TABLE BAY WITH DOWNTOWN CAPE TOWN AND TABLE MOUNTAIN IN THE BACKGROUND. NOTE THE CRUISE SHIP IN THE INNER HARBOR AT THE CRUISE TERMINAL. THERE IS HARDLY ANY PORT MORE BEAUTIFUL.
BARELY OUT OF HARBOR AND WE WERE SURROUNDED BY HUMPBACK WHALES. THRILLING TO BE UP SO CLOSE. THEY SEEMED TO ENJOY PLAYING GAMES WITH US.
LOOKING TOWARDS THE SPECTACULAR COASTAL ROAD BEWEEN THE ATLANTIC SUBURBS AND HOUT BAY.
THE COASTAL TOWN OF LLANDUDNO. ARCHITECTURAL GEMS HUG THE MOUNTAINSIDE.
THE SEAS CAN GET PRETTY ROUGH AND OVER THE CENTURIES MANY A WRECK HAS LANDED UP ON THE ROCKS .
ROUNDING THE BEND TO HOUT BAY HARBOR, A BUSY FISHING VILLAGE.
MY SMILE TELLS IT ALL.
ABOUT TO DOCK, AND A LUNCH OF FRESH FISH AND A GARDEN SALAD AWAITS AT THE LOOKOUT RESTAURANT TO THE LEFT.
MY TRANSPORT FOR THE DAY. AS A ONCE-UPON-A-TIME SAILOR, A MOTOR LAUNCH IS A DIFFERENT EXPERIENCE.
FISHING BOATS, HOUT BAY.
AND A VARIETY OF PLEASURE CRAFT.
BACK IN CAPE TOWN, ENTERING THE INNER YACHT HARBOR.
My final Incredible for this month is a wine estate in the Agterpaarl region, magnificently situated at the foot of the Klein Drakenstein mountains. Barely an hour’s drive out of Cape Town is the Brookdale Estate. I have in the past described the world class restaurant at Brookdale with renowned chef Gary Coetzee. This time we went for a 3 day stay to tour the estate and immerse ourselves in a visual, comfort, and culinary paradise. The Manor House at Brookdale, superbly run by Estate Manager Yvonne Coetzee, is a 6-star experience. With 8 suites, personal chef, butler, housekeeper, and support staff, our stay was sheer indulgence. Again, photos tell the story better than words.
THE MANOR HOUSE AT BROOKDALE ESTATE WITH VINEYARDS OF CHENIN BLANC IN THE FOREGROUND.
THE PAVED DRIVEWAY INTO THE ESTATE.
A WELCOME PARTY AWAITS AS WE ENTER THE GATES OF THE MANOR HOUSE. ALTHOUGH A PERFECT EXAMPLE OF CAPE DUTCH ARCHITECTURE IT IS ACTUALLY A FAIRLY NEW BUILDING.
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN – TRULY FROM THE EARTH TO THE PLATE .
ONE OF SEVERAL LOUNGES INSIDE THE MANOR HOUSE.
THE CHENIN BLANC GRAPES HAD JUST BEEN HARVESTED AND WERE BEING PRESSED AT THE WINE CELLAR.
THE SWIMMING POOL PAVILION.
OUR PERSONAL CHEFS WORKING THEIR MAGIC.
AND WHAT MAGIC. DUCK PATE, RAISIN PUREE, AND A SALAD.
FOR MOIRA, A CURRIED BEETROOT AND AVOCADO SALAD WITH SQUARES OF MANGO.
FRESH POACHED YELLOWTAIL.
MOIRA’S INDULGENCE – A LACTOSE FREE DESSERT OF ALMOND TART, GRANADILLA, AND MANGO GELATO.
OUR FAVORITE MEAL OF THE DAY WHEN TRAVELING IS BREAKFAST, RELAXING, TAKING IT SLOWLY, AND PLANNING THE DAY’S EXCURSIONS. THIS IS AS GOOD AS IT GETS!
AND SO, WE SAY FAREWELL. AS A FINAL BONUS, MY CAR HAD BEEN CLEANED!
South Africa is truly the country of contrasts. If you only include these three Incredibles in your Western Cape itinerary, you will leave more than well satisfied with your trip to this magnificent tip of Africa.
As ever
Wulf Utian
Cape Town and the Western Cape, March 10, 2024.
19 Responses
Wonderful letter Wulf , thank you . My best to both of you . Marty
What an outstanding letter.
We are honored to be included.
You take us back to prehistoric times.
You make us long for the delicious salad.
The photos are a feast for the eyes.
THANK YOU!
Love Jan and Isaac
Hi Wulf, and your letter, as usual, describes so well the pleasures of the western Cape, through your captured images and their respective captions.
To prospective travelers, their appetite to visit and experience for themselves, is heightened.
We are fortunate to have had, in our younger years, visits to several of these natural wonders, and others, while based in Cape Town for timeshare holidays.
My apologies for not getting around to sending comments on your starkly realistic observations on your train rides through the area.
Wishing you and Moira continued enjoyment of your visits, and for your readers, your letters that result.
It is Sunday morning watching my shows – doom and gloom and worrying. Along came your letter from the Western Cape and it showed beauty, calm and peace – just what I needed.
You could almost think “All’s right with the world”
Thanks Wulf
As usual, your travelogues are treasures. You’ve given us both sides of your beloved homeland and hope that the good can somehow find a way to prevail. With all the tragedies afflicting our world today, it’s a welcome respite to see photos of your beautiful natural environment and of you and Moira looking so healthy.
Best always and love, Jan and Bob
I pray all is well with you and Moira and family, it certainly looks like it from your letter!
I wanted to tell you that the pics are simply incredible!
I appreciate your views of the good and not so good. This is the world we live in and it’s not always good. I feel like I’ve been on vacation myself after reading and viewing the pics. Valerie Price
Wulf, I always feel like I live vicariously through your travels. The gardens are truly breathtaking and indescribable. I am so grateful for the pictures that go along with your narrative.
South Africa is on my bucket list and I truly hope to get there one day. Hoping you and Moira enjoy the rest of your trip before your return to the states. You, Val and I need to plan a dinner when you get back.
If all else fails, Wulf, just submit this letter and beautiful accompanying photos to any upscale travel magazine and they’ll hire you to do more travel talk and photos of SA. You certainly could sell us all on visiting the SW Cape area and more during our winter here and summer there.
And the photos of the meal you and Moira enjoyed were beyond just tempting. Thanks for
putting this together to share with us.
Thanks for sharing the stunning incredibles of SA. Love to revisit and see them in person. Peaceful and extraordinary! Your photos and descriptions provide an escape from reality. XXXOOO Linda
19 Responses
Wonderful letter Wulf , thank you . My best to both of you . Marty
What an outstanding letter.
We are honored to be included.
You take us back to prehistoric times.
You make us long for the delicious salad.
The photos are a feast for the eyes.
THANK YOU!
Love Jan and Isaac
Hi Wulf, and your letter, as usual, describes so well the pleasures of the western Cape, through your captured images and their respective captions.
To prospective travelers, their appetite to visit and experience for themselves, is heightened.
We are fortunate to have had, in our younger years, visits to several of these natural wonders, and others, while based in Cape Town for timeshare holidays.
My apologies for not getting around to sending comments on your starkly realistic observations on your train rides through the area.
Wishing you and Moira continued enjoyment of your visits, and for your readers, your letters that result.
Warm regards,
Dave Sieff.
Thanks for sharing. Your Incredibles should be submitted to National Geographic.
I have such fond memories of you taking me to the botanical garden and seeing the ancient cycads. Thanks for sharing!
I remember your visit. Hope all is well with you.
It is Sunday morning watching my shows – doom and gloom and worrying. Along came your letter from the Western Cape and it showed beauty, calm and peace – just what I needed.
You could almost think “All’s right with the world”
Thanks Wulf
Stunning pics and wonderful descriptions. Enjoyed it all!! Philip and Lucille
As usual, your travelogues are treasures. You’ve given us both sides of your beloved homeland and hope that the good can somehow find a way to prevail. With all the tragedies afflicting our world today, it’s a welcome respite to see photos of your beautiful natural environment and of you and Moira looking so healthy.
Best always and love, Jan and Bob
As always your commentary and photos are spectacular. Truly incredible. Thanks for sharing the beauty and glory of South Africa. Susan
I pray all is well with you and Moira and family, it certainly looks like it from your letter!
I wanted to tell you that the pics are simply incredible!
I appreciate your views of the good and not so good. This is the world we live in and it’s not always good. I feel like I’ve been on vacation myself after reading and viewing the pics. Valerie Price
Wulf, I always feel like I live vicariously through your travels. The gardens are truly breathtaking and indescribable. I am so grateful for the pictures that go along with your narrative.
South Africa is on my bucket list and I truly hope to get there one day. Hoping you and Moira enjoy the rest of your trip before your return to the states. You, Val and I need to plan a dinner when you get back.
Take care.
Great article!
Testing
Wulf,
Very grateful for this truly beautiful escape!
xo
Jan
Wonderful travelogue, as always. Beautiful photos! Thanks for sharing.
Much love to you and Moira,
Sally
If all else fails, Wulf, just submit this letter and beautiful accompanying photos to any upscale travel magazine and they’ll hire you to do more travel talk and photos of SA. You certainly could sell us all on visiting the SW Cape area and more during our winter here and summer there.
And the photos of the meal you and Moira enjoyed were beyond just tempting. Thanks for
putting this together to share with us.
Thanks for sharing the stunning incredibles of SA. Love to revisit and see them in person. Peaceful and extraordinary! Your photos and descriptions provide an escape from reality. XXXOOO Linda
Wulf
Truly beautiful views of South Africa.
Phyllis and I are sorry we never got there
I see why you spend half of each year enjoying it