WULF UTIAN’S LETTER FROM CAPE TOWN
DECEMBER – JANUARY 2024
WORLDS APART
To repeat at the risk of annoyance, Cape Town and the Western Cape is a special place, and to spend the South African summer in this region is a privilege for the privileged. One is struck however by the striking differences between life in Cleveland (and the USA) and life here. I am not referring to physical beauty or climate, which are poles apart, but to habits, customs, interactions between people, dress, sense of humor, joie de vivre, and quality of life.
An arrival at Cape Town airport is to exit into a kaleidoscope of people of all races, a cacophony of multiple languages, a rainbow of colors, and traffic to match any in the world. Our driver asked us to wait as he collected the vehicle promising to return “just now,” meaning in a while. He commented that the weather was “quite nice,” implying not so good, placed our luggage ”in the boot,” meaning the trunk, and drove out on the wrong side of the street, at least for Americans. Taxi drivers on the roads are reckless, many drivers unlicensed, or at least in possession of illegal licenses, and one needs eyes at the back of one’s head. Amazingly one sees few accidents, but when they happen, they are bad.
An immediate difference is the quality of food. Fruit may not have the glistening photographic appearance as in an American supermarket, but the taste, incomparable! Same for salads which are truly farm fresh. Enjoy any of the many varieties of fish in Cape Town and get spoiled for life. Most of the food in restaurants is locally sourced.
American and European tourists are also pleasurably surprised by what their dollars and euros can purchase. Nowhere is this more obvious than in restaurants. Over the holiday week we were in Knysna on the garden route and taking the expanded family of 8 to dinner rarely cost me more than $100, and that included drinks and a tip. I had the misfortune of needing the private hospital emergency room, nothing serious I am pleased to report, and after 3 hours with multiple blood tests and EKG’s, all normal, I paid my bill on the way out. The total cost for all services without insurance was Rand 2100.00, $112.35. Probably would have cost 50 times that in Cleveland. By the way, the quality of care was superb. Medications purchased at retail prices here cost less than the copay back in the USA, same brand, most from the States.
Dress is also different. Admittedly Cape Town is a coastal city and major tourist destination, but casual is the word. South African children live very outdoor lives and often walk bare feet. It is not unusual to see men in shorts at a restaurant at night. Women dress better than the men, and the newly affluent are bedecked with bling.
The worst behavior is witnessed among foreign tourists, especially Eastern Europeans and Brits. Given that a bottle of an excellent South African wine costs less than a glass would for these tourists, they order as many bottles as they would glasses back home, and can become noisy and obstreperous.
Interestingly, although apartheid only ended in 1994, the degree of interracial integration seems to far exceed the USA. It is heartening to see mixed groups in all aspects of life.
We have all been inundated with news of politics, brutal wars, corruption, and intolerance. So, I do not intend to get into any of these issues in my first newsletter of this season. Suffice to say, it is difficult to escape reality. Let me rather comment on the positive and share some of our experience of the first 6 weeks back here.
Western Capers spend much of their lives outdoors. Admittedly climate plays a role. Nonetheless, there is a profusion of outdoor restaurants, and many make use of the unique local environment. So let me introduce you to some outdoor eating, starting with Cape Town.
ARTISTS’ SMALL STUDIOS AND CRAFT SHOPS.
OF A LOCAL JAZZ BAND.
Our one nephew got married on a wine farm near the small town of Riebeek Kasteel. We stayed at the Royal Hotel, one of the oldest in South Africa but well renovated. The front verandah is reputed to be the longest of any hotel in Africa. Certainly, it is relaxing to sip a drink or eat a meal outdoors and watch the local passing parade. The small town itself is like many in the Western Cape I have previously described, replete with local artists studios, mostly womens fashion boutiques with exquisite locally made garments, coffee shops, and restaurants, and completely safe to meander.
Cape Town is a city of views. We need go no further than our own windows.
The opening paragraph of Alan Paton’s famous book, Cry the beloved Country (Penguin Books, 1944) begins: “There is a lovely road that runs from Ixopo into the hills. These hills are grass-covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it. The road climbs seven miles into them, to Carisbrooke; and from there, if there is no mist, you look down on one of the fairest valleys of Africa. About you there is grass and bracken, and you may hear the forlorn crying of the titihoya. one of the birds of the veld…”
I could write the same about so many of the places, hills, and valleys we explore here in the Western Cape. The tragedy is that humanity is so self-destructive, and so much that was is no longer.
As ever,
Wulf Utian
Cape Town January 9, 2024.
29 Responses
I am thrilled that you are sharing your experiences again with us.
You are an incredible writer.
We feel as if we are traveling with you and enjoying every morsel and sipping every drop.
THANK YOU!!!!
Lots of love——Jan and Isaac
Fantastic, so eloquently written
Thanks for the letter Wulf . I am so happy for you and Moira . Have a Happy and Healthy New year . Marty
Wolf,
As a former South African now living in Cleveland , (Bratenahl). I so enjoyed reading your beautifully written newsletter. You transported me back into a land that I too so loved.
I am so glad you and Moira are doing we well and enjoying life! I am not sure you remember me from Cleveland.
Anyhow Happy Healthy New Year. Take care will look forward to reading the next newsletter!
Sharon Of course I remember you well, and appreciate your comment. Hope you are well. Warmest regards, Wulf
Wulf once again I’ve travelled with you and Moira loved every moment of the trip, but can’t recognise any or very few of the places. Thank goodness Table Mountain still stands upright and welcoming. Just shows you how a country can change and grow in 60 years. Such improvement although the beauty of the countryside remains but for me now more of the feel of Europe. Wonderful read. Look forward to your next letter. Lots of love to you both….(steer clear of the medical side..).XX 😘😘
Thanks Wulf
Very kind words but true
We live in a fantastic part of the world
Your writing makes me want to visit. Maybe this year or next. Thank you.
Thank you again for continuing to share your wonderful adventures with all of us! Happy New Year to you and Moira.
Carolyn
Wonderful to share your journey again and reexperience that beautiful country and amazing quality of life, so beautifully expressed. I look forward to Your next newsletter.
All the best
Fondly Barbara
Can’t wait to come back to South Africa to see you two! I might return in June 2024, as my daughter, AnaSophia, has a school trip to South Africa. I’ll keep you posted. Best to you and Moira!
Warm regards,
Pauline
We go back to Cleveland the end of April but return for a brief visit in June for our granddaughter’s wedding. Hope to see you.
An incredible letter once again Wulf, and your descriptions make us feel as if we are right at your side!
The pics are beautiful and we are looking forward to enjoying some of those restaurant experiences on our visit, which is coming up real soon. Hope all is well.
Much love to you and Moira.
Sounds beautiful. but even with the Cleveland winters, and Donald Trump lurking, I would rather be here. Do enjoy your visit, because friends and family are still more important than the moral corruption of the S. African government.
Wulf,
Very grateful for another wonderful escape from a cold, gray, icy Boston winter!
Warm wishes for health and joy in 2024,
Jan
Dr. Utian,
It’s so lovely to read the tales of your incredible travels. What an enchanting place South Africa appears to be. I wish you well in this New Year of 2024 as you meander along in your beautiful homeland! Maybe one day, I will get to enjoy some of the haunts you detail so beautifully. One can hope!
My best wishes to you and your family,
Patty Wilde
Good to hear from you Patricia. Hope all well and that you have a good year. Warm regards, Wulf
A well written enjoyable newsletter. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Wulf,
Hi Wulf,
I have been fortunate to read your well written positive holiday experiences.
The Western and Eastern Cape are such special places and we are happy that you enjoy
them and see them as we do💕
Thanks John. Warm regards and Happy New Year to you all, Wulf
Thanks. Well done!
Hi Wulf & Moira! Such an amazing letter and so eloquently written! I absolutely LOVE SA and cannot wait to return. THE best wine, food, people and landscape. The only vacation that I ever want to take.
Be well!
Doreen & Barry
Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts and pictures with us!
Nice to get this update from you along with photos that remind us of our trip there. Your storytelling makes it seem not so far away. Wish you both all sunny days till we see you again.
I truly enjoyed your wonderful message from S. Africa. Mazel tov on your upcoming celebration of your granddaughter’s upcoming wedding. My twin granddaughters are turning 6 in a few weeks! You are missing cold and dreary weather so enjoy the sunshine! Stay well!
Fabulous narrative that take us to that beautiful place that I remember eell from the World Cup times.
Glad to know you are wel
Hope to be in contact with you soon
Thanks Ricardo, Hope all is good with you. Warm regards, Wulf
Wonderful photos and commentary! Thanks so much! Enjoy and relax.
Lots of love to you both,
Sally