WULF UTIAN’S LETTER FROM CAPE TOWN JANUARY 2023

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ON THE ROAD AGAIN

There is just something special about putting suitcases in the trunk of our car and heading out of the big city into the countryside. Indeed, as we leave, Moira and I inevitably start our trip singing Willie Nelson’s memorable song,  “on the road again.” Remember some of the words?

 “On the road again

Goin’ places that I’ve never been

Seein’ things that I may never see again.” *

So, I thought I would dedicate my first letter of the New Year to glimpses of trips taken in the Western and Eastern Cape and some of what we come across as we travel.

Most times I plan the trip and arrange accommodation ahead. Searching the internet for exotic places to visit and stay in itself is a pleasurable pastime. Once upon a time we took our chances as we hit the road, but now I am more comfortable trusting my luck in Europe than in South Africa. If a place is full, it can be a long and uncertain trip to the next possible accommodation.

The random glimpse from road trips give, especially to those of you outside South Africa, an idea of what to expect. Roads and comfort stations vary, as do places to eat, and stay. Fortunately, as we drive a desolate road there always seems to be a farm stall or  quaint roadside café to stop at.

I am often asked if we are concerned about our safety. I can truthfully say that we have never felt threatened, even in the most desolate of places.

Roads on main routes are generally in excellent condition, but off the beaten track a little less so.

MAIN ROADS ARE IN GREAT SHAPE. THE DIFFICULTY IS TO KEEP YOUR EYES ON THE ROAD WHEN SURROUNDED BY GLORIOUS SCENERY.
ROADS CAN ALSO BE PRETTY SERPENTINE.
OCCASIONALLY THE NATIONAL ROADS ARE DUAL-LANED, BUT USUALLY NOT. ALL ROADS ARE WELL SIGN-POSTED AND SPEED LIMITS MADE CLEAR. BUT EVEN ON FREEWAYS MILES FROM NOWHERE, PEOPLE CAN BE SEEN WALKING ALONG THE SIDE OF THE ROAD.
TRAFFIC CAN BE HEAVY, AND DRIVERS MOSTLY WELL BEHAVED. BUT VIGILANCE FOR MANIACS IS CRUCIAL.
WE ALWAYS TAKE ADVANTAGE OF KEY VIEWPOINTS. WHO KNOWS IF WE WILL EVER COME PAST THE SAME PLACE AGAIN.
SECONDARY R0ADS MAY BE GRAVEL AND CORRUGATED. HERE ROAD DUST CAN BE A PROBLEM.
THE REWARD IS IN THE VIEWS. THAT SKY IS REAL.
WONDERFUL TO STOP IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, EAT A SNACK. AND SOAK UP THE AMBIENCE.
ANOTHER VIEW, ANOTHER DAY, ANOTHER PLACE.
THESE ARE NAMAQUALAND DAISIES IN FULL BLOOM.
ROAD SIGNS ARE CLEAR EVEN ON DIRT ROADS.
I OFTEN TAKE THE BACK ROAD JUST TO FIND OUT WHAT IS AT THE END. NO NEED TO BE DETERRED BY GATES OR ANIMAL BARRIERS.
OCCASIONALLY A BELIGERANT LOCAL WILL REFUSE TO GET OUT OF THE WAY.
AND THE ANSWER IS TO JUST GO BY FOOT.
THE REWARD INVARIABLY ARRIVES AT THE END OF THE ROAD.
OFTEN THIS IS WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE AT THE END OF AN UNMARKED TURNOFF, AND ALL WE CAN DO IS TURN AROUND AND TRY AGAIN SOMEWHERE ELSE.
THIS TIME WE REALLY KNEW WHERE WE WERE GOING BECAUSE THIS IS A LONG WAY FROM THE MAIN FREEWAY. SEE WHAT I MEAN ABOUT ROAD DUST?
RULE NUMBER 1. NEVER MISS AN OPPORTUNITY TO GRAB AN OPPORTUNITY

Food is almost never a problem The range of options on where to get food are surprisingly variable, from roadside farmers stalls, to inns, cafes, and even quite deluxe establishments. We are always tempted by the range of local fruits and delicacies at the farm stalls, and usually end up taking home more than we can handle. The following are a few examples.

A ROADSIDE RESTAURANT.
LOCALS HAVE A WONDERFUL SENSE OF HUMOR. THIS SIGN STATES EAT OR BUY SOMETHING OTHERWISE YOU MIGHT DIE OF HUNGER.
THIS PLACE ADVERTIZES “ADULT MILKSHAKES.” THE WRECK IN FRONT IS LABELLED “FARMERS UBER.”
A CHILD-FRIENDLY TRANSLATION AT THIS PLACE STATES NO PETROL, BUT TRULY EXCELLENT FOOD.
VERY TYPICAL APPEARANCE OF A ROADSIDE FARM STALL.
AND THE TEMPTING HOME MADE GOODIES INSIDE.
SEE WHAT I MEAN?
SOME OF THE OPTIONS CAN BE REALLY FIRST CLASS.
ONE OF OUR FAVORITE ROADSIDE BAKERIES AT RIVIERSONDEREND ON THE WAY TO KNYSNA.
ANOTHER, AND THE FINAL EXAMPLE, THIS ONE ON THE ROAD TO BUFFALO BAY.
MOUTH-WATERING FRESH HOME-BAKED GOODS INSIDE.
WHAT WE PASS ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD NEVER FAILS TO SURPRISE US.
OLD FASHIONED WINDMILLS ABOUND ON THE FARMS.
SOMETIMES FLORAL CARPETS.
OFTEN, ANIMALS.
EVEN OLD-FASHIONED TRANSPORT, BUT IT IS NO FUN TO GET STUCK BEHIND SOMETHING LIKE THIS ON A NARROW DIRT ROAD.
AFTER A LONG DAY ON THE ROAD IT IS ALWAYS A JOY AND ADVENTURE TO ARRIVE AT OUR DESTINATION, A HOT SHOWER AND A GOOD MEAL, IN THIS INSTANCE AN HISTORIC HOTEL IN A SMALL TOWN (VICTORIA HOTEL, CRADOCK).
PART OF AN EPISODE OF “THE CROWN” WAS FILMED AT THIS COUNTRY HOTEL, BARTHOLOMEUS KLIP COUNTRY RETREAT. THE FOOD WAS 5-STAR PERFECTION. WE ENDED UP STAYING 3 NIGHTS!
HERE WE HAD AN INDIVIDUAL VILLA PERCHED ON THE EDGE OF THE LOW CLIFF FACING THE OCEAN, AND MILES FROM ANY CIVILISATION – LEKKERWATER, DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE.
EVENTUALLY ALL ROADS COME TO AN END.

As ever,
Wulf

January 31, 2023.
Cape Town and the roads of the Western Cape.
Newsletter © Copyright. Utian Press. 2023.

*Source: LyricFind
Songwriter: Willie Nelson
On the Road Again lyrics © Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC

29 Responses

  1. Awesome! Lucky for you to have a beautiful model to enhance your equally beautiful photos! Definitely makes me want to plan my own SA adventure.

    Reply

  3. Another magical trip both pictorially and as always a wonderful wordsmith is our Wulf.
    Moira looking good and by the sounds of it you’re as always having a blast and taking us with you both.
    Thanks for sharing your thoughts photos and love. Besos xx 😘😘

    Reply

  5. Your and Moira’s shared sense of adventure adds to your photos and accompanying dialog. We’re envious. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply

  6. Wulf,
    Very grateful for a lovely escape from Boston winter and an important reminder to enjoy the moments of each adventure rather than just rush to the journey’s end –
    xo
    Jan

    Reply

  9. Two young adventurers off on a drive in the wilds.
    Not worried there is no AAA in case of breakdown or EMS if not well
    Go for it
    Love every day

    Avrum and Phyllis

    Reply

  10. What a magnificent tour! Thank you for sharing road stops and information. Hope Moira is feeling well. Miss both of you love, Mikki and Michael.

    Reply

  12. Your life journey, Wulf and Moire, is inspiring! It leaves me feeling challenged to ‘get out there’ and explore. But, most obvious is your love story- for each other, and for the time we have to explore the beauty of the gift that is our planet.
    Blessings and good wishes on your journey.
    Jim Fahy

    Reply

  15. the adventure continues! Wonderful scenery, even makes me feel hungry. Our best to you both. Stay warm.
    Love

    Reply

  16. Thank you Wulf and Moira for sharing your beautiful pictures and descriptions of your adventures!! I admire how you explore and continue to learn while in this stage of your life!!

    Reply

  19. Once again thank you both for sharing your amazing adventures with us! The photos are absolutely stunning and the commentary brings them to life.

    Love, Carolyn

    Reply

  20. Wulf and Moira, always great to see your travels and hoping that someday I will be able to see the world as you have!!!!

    Reply

  21. Thanks Wulf & Moira for sharing your experiences in that wonderful country, full of contradictions.
    Wish you all the best,
    Hans & Margreet

    Reply

  22. Keep your wonderful travelogues coming. You and Moira certainly find joy, adventure and beauty in every day. Love, Jan and Bob

    Reply

  23. Sharing your adventures and wanderlust vicariously is a joy. What breathtaking pictures! The one with the “corduroy sky” is mind boggling. And the narrative is full of the joy you obviously share.
    Also impressed with how your Mercedes keeps turning into a Lexus and vice versa. How do you do that?
    Keep it up, and stay healthy.
    Steven & Trudy

    Reply

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