LIFE AT THE VICTORIA AND ALFRED (V & A) WATERFRONT
“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of light, it was the season of darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the winter of despair.”
― Charles Dickens, A Tale of Two Cities
A contemporary Dickens would most surely have had South Africa in mind when he penned these famous words. In a country beset by government incompetence and corruption, decay of essential services, rampant crime, broken health and education systems for the masses, and areas of heartbreaking poverty, there are places and programs of ‘light.’ In this contemporary South Africa, Cape Town and parts of the Western Cape are a bubble, the only area not under the control of the ANC Government. Within this bubble lies yet another bubble, the Victoria and Alfred (V & A ) Waterfront. Given that this is where we will be living for the local summer, and the uniqueness of the place, I devote my newsletter to our first experiences of Life on the Waterfront.
To quote from their website, “The V&A Waterfront is an iconic mixed-use destination located in the oldest working harbor in the Southern Hemisphere. With Table Mountain as its backdrop, the 123-hectare neighborhood sits within the beautiful city of Cape Town, welcoming millions of people from all over the continent and the rest of the world. The V&A is a symbol of heritage and diversity, where people from all walks of life can play, live, shop, dine and work while immersed in the vibrant spirit and authentic local culture that exists in this bustling ecosystem.
It sees its role on the continent to be a platform that facilitates and champions art and design, to support entrepreneurship and innovation, lead the charge on sustainability, and drive positive social and economic change. By prioritizing people and the planet, the V&A is an example of how working with communities, respecting the environment and operating with passion and integrity is a better, more productive, and kinder way of doing business.”
It is all of that and more, quite unique in the world, and, above all, completely safe at all times. Given that we have only been living in this area for 2 weeks, the following are glimpses of the place. A picture says a thousand words, so this letter is largely a photographic excursion.

This visit we are living in a Penthouse in the V&A Residential area, yet another bubble within a bubble within a bubble. The word Penthouse truly describes our home. It looks like a house on the top of a residential building. Those of you who remember our glass house in Bratenahl, Cleveland, might be amused by the resemblance. We have 360-degree views of Table Mountain, Devils Peak and Lions Head on one side, the inner yacht basin on another, parts of the V&A canal and buildings on another, and the Cape Town cruise ship terminal on another.




The V&A is huge and, as described above, covers every facet of living. Within walking distance of our apartment are shops of every variety, restaurants of all kinds, cinemas, art museums, water taxis, small boat excursions, hotels, aquarium, you name it, it is here. It is certainly a tourist’s delight. Diverse and dynamic, it is thronged with people from all over the world including South Africa, and every language is heard.
Structures are built around a working harbor and intermingled between the shopping, eating and other venues. There are many hotels, so I illustrate a few, especially for my non-South African friends who may be contemplating a visit.







There are so many more hotels in the vicinity, but this selection is more than adequate for most.
In a country beset by electricity problems, alternates abound – solar, inverters and generators.

Now for some of the buildings and shopping areas. A lot of this is in random order, but that in fact is the way the V&A is experienced; random places, people and activities catch your eye from every direction. Historic buildings in a harbor dating over 350 years are interspersed with modern structures. Some are chimeras, for example, currently the original Union Castle Building has been gutted on the inside, and the façade maintained as a new multipurpose building is developed within.















As this is a working harbor there are several bridges to cross waterways, and the following are 2 examples.


The Aquarium is a wonderful place for children to view a wide variety of sea life species from small tanks to absolutely giant ‘walk-through’ glass containers.

Art abounds, outside and in. Chicago has its ‘Bears,’ Cleveland has its ‘Guitars’, and Cape Town has its ‘Rhinos.’



Speaking of diversity, the V&A is the true melting pot – and all get on, smile, and greet people, and somehow the world survives.



Hopefully I have not lost your attention but let me close with another view of the architecturally unique Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art of Africa (MOCAA). A cluster of grain silos in the V&A was to be demolished when someone came up with the idea of hollowing out the interior bases and developing an art museum. I show an exterior view, rather than demonstrate the interior, which I did some time back in one of my newsletters. I leave to your imagination the stunning interior. While not everyone is entranced by the art collection, a visit is a must as the building itself is an architectural triumph and a visual work of art.

I hope I have whetted your appetites to visit the V&A. It is, quite simply, a remarkable place.
Until next time, Moira and I wish you all a 2023 of health, peace, and prosperity.
As ever
Wulf Utian
Cape Town and the V&A Waterfront
December 25, 2022
17 Responses
Thank you for sharing pictures and narrative from your journey, Wulf. It’s always a treat to enjoy a glimpse of summer, from the depth of a Minnesota winter.
Wishing you, Moire and family the very best during the holidays.
Thank you Wulf for this wonderful opportunity to visit V&A through your lens and your words. Happy Holidays!
Claudio
I am expecting one day to read in your letter that you have a side gig working for the South Africa Tourist Bureau.
The photos you have sent are extraordinary , enticing, and tugging on one’s mind to pack your bags, get over to the nearest airport, and come over to visit. You are a gifted story teller.
We want to wish you and Moira and your Family a HAPPY NEW YEAR and lots of HEALTH and HAPPINESS.
Love Jan and Isaac
Wow Wulf what an extraordinary two weeks experience. Big surprise you’ve moved from your regular area. But how AMAZING and incredible is this area.
Completely lost and recognise virtually nothing except it’s all exciting and enticing for maybe a visit one day
Your photos as usual are sensational and between text and visual I’ve shared your journey, so far.
Sure even you find this so different from our days, and the area of your then surgery . Such growth but the beauty remains
Have a wonderful Xmas and New Year lots of love to you both and all the family. Xx
Greetings from the Lagomar in Fort Lauderdale. What a pleasure to read your letter. I remember the bustling area where you now live from my visit with AnaSophia. She and I will return in July to visit Nicole. Perhaps we can revisit CT again and have lunch with you there again. I have such fond memories of our trip with you to the botanical gardens. All our best to you and Moira.
Wulf,
Thank you for these wonderful photos and much needed escape from our anticipated polar vortex and a deep, icy/snowy freeze across the US!
Wishes for health and joy in 2023,
Jan
As always, beautiful photos. Really enjoy sharing your time there. Brings back such wonderful memories. Wishing you both a happy and healthy new year. Best wishes Barbara kotton
Wow!!! I always enjoy your newsletters loaded with photos and storytelling to create a fully vivid image of South Africa. Every time it makes me want to pack up immediately and explore. Wishing you & Moira all the best in this holiday season & happy new year!
Thank you, Wulf!
Wonderful photos and commentary. Much appreciated.
Sending best wishes to you and Moira. Have a wonderful time. Safe travels.
Sally
Wishing you and yours a happy and healthy new year! Love seeing your photos.
What wonderful memories these photos bring! A special place.
Good health in the new year-
Steven & Trudy
On one of our stays in SAS we were at the Cape Grace and very much enjoyed walking around the shops of the harbor and stopping for my favorite lunch of grilled kingclip
and fries with a glass of SA Chardonnay. Thanks for bringing back those memories for us.
Wulf
Another poetic presentation! We are viewing it sitting in our kitchen, the warmest room, 65 degrees, in the house, outside 3 degrees . We see why you go home to SA every year in winter.
Wish we could join . Happy New Year.
Avrum and Phyllis
Loved our visit & enjoy your article & pictures immensely. A most wondrous holiday & a super 2023.
Stan Brown
Thank you Wulf. For those of us not able or inclined to travel, this is a gift. One day I hope to make it to SA, with your letters as my inspiration and guide. Roy.
Thank you very much, Wulf, for – as always – your most interesting newsletter. It reminds us very much of our visits to S. Africa where indeed we enjoyed maybe most our stay in Cape Town. Your stories bring again to life our deep desire to once again visit this special country. Kind regards and wishing both of you a wonderful, happy and healthy 2023. Hans & Margreet
What a wonderful, photographic treat you’ve given us. You are a powerhouse advertisement for the glories of SA. Enjoy your life on that glorious waterfront. Love and warmest wishes for a joyous new year of joy to you, Moira and all the Utians….Jan and Bob