WULF UTIAN’S LETTER FROM CAPE TOWN, APRIL 2024 – SEASON-END EXPERIENCES AND THOUGHTS

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WULF UTIAN’S LETTER FROM CAPE TOWN
APRIL 2024
SEASON-END EXPERIENCES AND THOUGHTS

As yet another summer fades in the Southern Hemisphere and our return to Cleveland draws near, we cannot avoid the mixed emotions and thoughts the transition generates. We live two entirely different lives, a situation that cannot be compared to sunbirds going south or west within the continental USA. I will spare you the emotions, describe recent experiences, and conclude my letters for this season with some closing thoughts.

When the world was created, Plettenberg Bay on the Garden Route was surely one of the most perfect spots, another one of my Incredibles. About 600kms from Cape Town, it is set between the Indian Ocean with its warmer waters and the Tsitsikama mountains and forest behind. The perfect spot in Plettenberg Bay is Beacon Island, and the Beacon Island Resort is certainly one of the most perfectly situated hotels in the world.

A whaling station on Beacon Island closed down in 1916. Parts of the iron slipway are still visible today. A hotel called The Beacon Isle was built on the site of the whaling station. This was replaced by the iconic Beacon Isle Southern Sun Resort which opened for business in December 1972. This building, designed by André Hoffe, has a layered atrium which pays tribute to the Guggenheim Museum of Frank Lloyd Wright.” (Source: Wikipedia).

THE MOST RECENT ITERATION OF THE NAVIGATIONAL BEACON THAT GAVE BEACON ISLAND ITS NAME.

 

Moira and I were privileged to spend a week here, our first visit in over 5 years. It was one of our favorite vacation destinations before we left South Africa and remains so. To our delight, the hotel had been completely refurbished, beautifully maintained, and our sea-facing suite was superb. How do you describe going to bed at night with the freshest air in the world breezing in through the open windows together with the sounds of the surf crashing on the rocks below, or waking early in the morning and taking a long walk on the soft white sands of Robberg beach?

THE ICONIC BEACON ISLAND RESORT, AS PERFECT TODAY AS WHEN IT OPENED IN 1972.

 

AN UPWARD VIEW FROM THE CENTER OF THE LOBBY HINTS AT THE GUGGENHEIM IN NEW YORK.

 

BEACHES ON EACH SIDE ARE QUITE DIFFERENT. THE NORTH SIDE BEACH IS PERFECT FOR SWIMMING AND SURFING.

 

WHILE THE ROBBERG BEACH ON THE OTHER SIDE OFFERS A LONG WALK ON SOFT WHITE SAND.

 

THE LESS ENTHUSIASTIC CAN SIMPLY RELAX ON THE LAWNS BY THE POOL…

 

…AND WATCH THE SURF CRASH AGAINST THE ROCKS WHILE BREATHING IN THE OZONE.

 

THERE IS THE OPTION OF SITTING IN A LOUNGE CANTILEVERED OVER THE ROCKS AND WATCHING THE SURF FROM WITHIN.

 

In short, this is the perfect spot to spend a week and just chill out. Forget the rest of the world for a brief moment; it will still be there when you return home.

Options for day trips out of Cape Town abound. For us, a favorite lunch spot is the verandah restaurant at the Graff Delaire Wine Estate, a beautiful drive between Franschoek and Stellenbosch. Developed from a small estate by Laurence Graff, the international diamond mogul, into a world class vineyard, hotel and spa, the estate is renowned for its wine and art collection, African artists carefully curated by Graff himself out of his private collection. The views from the restaurant are breathtaking, the restaurant worth Michelin 3 stars, and the service perfect. Here one really sits back and relaxes over a long lunch.

LOOKING OUT FROM THE MAIN LOBBY OF GRAFF DELAIRE.

 

LOOK AT THE VIEW BEHIND, THE FOOD IS ILLUSTRATED BELOW.

 

BLACK SQUID PASTA WITH A SELECTION OF SEA FOODS.

 

MEDIUM RARE BEEF WITH ASPARAGUS AND A VARIETY OF MUSHROOMS.

 

A REMARKABLE PIECE WE HAD NOT SEEN BEFORE BY A CONGOLESE ARTIST, EDDY ILUNGA KAMUANGA, IN WHICH HE INTEGRATES ICONS OF SILICON CHIPS AND MOTHERBOARDS TO EXPOSE THE PILLAGE OF CONGO RESOURCES BY FOREIGN POWERS.

 

A VIEW FROM DELAIRE.

 

No visit to Southern Africa is complete without spending at least a few days in a game park. This year I took my son and two grandsons to Jabulani Safari Lodge, a Relais & Chateaux 5-star luxury lodge in Kapama Private Game Reserve adjacent to the Kruger National Park. In truth I think I overindulged the boys and spoiled them for life. But the highlight of the elephant experience will certainly be what they most remember. Jabulani, an elephant rescued as a calf about 20 years ago at the age of 4, is the reason the lodge came into existence. Over 20 elephants have now been rescued and, quite remarkably, have come together as a herd and family. The story of the HERD is quite fascinating. They are watched over during the day by dedicated overseers who can walk over 20 kms a day with them come rain or come shine. Of course, we saw the big 5 and were especially lucky to even see a rare pangolin. Let the following photos show some of the experience.

CAPE TOWN IN THE SOUTHWEST TO HOEDSPRUIT IN THE NORTHEAST IS THE LONGEST FLIGHT IN SOUTH AFRICA, ALMOST 3 HOURS.

 

BRETT, MAX, JACK, AND WULF ON A BUSH WALK IN KAPAMA GAME RESERVE. THAT’S A TERMITE MOUND IN THE BACKGROUND. YES, OUR RANGER, DREECE, DID CARRY A LOADED RIFLE.

 

PANGOLINS ARE RARELY SEEN IN SOUTHERN AFRICAN GAMEPARKS. WE WERE REMARKABLY LUCKY. THIS ONE FELT SAFE ENOUGH NOT TO ROLL INTO A BALL. NOTE THE SURFACE DETAIL.

 

NOT ROARING, JUST YAWNING.

 

MEET JABULANI, THE FIRST RESCUED ELEPHANT AT THE CAMP.

 

MAKE NO MISTAKE, JABULANI IS HUGE.

 

IMAGINE THIS CHARGING YOU!

 

THE AFRICAN BUFFALO IS FAR MORE DANGEROUS AND HAS A BAD TEMPERAMENT. LOOK AT THOSE HORNS ON THIS BIG BULL.

 

TRAGICALLY, BECAUSE OF POACHING, MANY RHINOS ARE BEING DEHORNED, LIKE THIS WHITE RHINO.

 

ROUGHING IT – DINNER IN THE BUSH WITH SOUP, BUTTERNUT SALAD, BOEREWORS BON-BONS, ROASTED RACK OF LAMB, PEPPER CRUSTED WILDEBEEST LOIN, AND ENDING WITH TRADITIONAL MALVA PUDDING OR A WHITE WINE BAKED BRIE.

 

DEFINITELY, OUR MEMORIES WILL MOSTLY BE ABOUT THE REMARKABLE RESCUED ELEPHANTS OF JABULANI.

 

HEADING HOME AT DUSK.

 

Indulge me as I end the season with some closing thoughts.

We have had a wonderful summer surrounded by family in one of the most magnificent places on earth. But we are privileged, and all is not perfect, as I have touched on in my recent letters. South Africa is a diamond marred by a huge flaw within, namely, its corrupt, hypocritical, tone deaf, and useless government. In power for thirty years since independence in 1994, instead of wisely spending its vast wealth on human services, education, healthcare, housing, social supports and infrastructure, the ANC government has enriched itself and its close friends by stealing the assets and living high on the hog, bringing the country and the economy to its knees. This is a classic example of reverse Robin Hoodism, robbing the poor and feeding the rich. Now the masses are beginning to rebel. They have an opportunity come May 29 and the General Election to throw out the bums. Will they? I doubt it. Like MAGA Americans in the USA, they have bought into a cult, and will expose their ignorance in the ballot box.

Indeed, there is a fear in the Western Cape that the ANC might even take over from the Democratic Alliance who have run the only functional state in the country. Little wonder that nearly one million educated South Africans have emigrated over the past 20 years, with only a tiny minority returning. As they have hit above their weight contributing internationally with great success in multiple fields of endeavor, South Africa has in turn been deprived of their crucially needed skills. A small country like South Africa simply cannot afford this brain drain. We depart Cape Town April 29, and have no idea what “South Africa” we will return to on our next visit.

Let me also address South African foreign policy. In robbing the country, the ANC even bankrupted itself. Wherever there was a Rand to be stolen, they have found it. To bankroll the upcoming election campaign and continue the pigfest, they needed money and found that outsourcing foreign policy and selling the country’s birthright was another source of funds. Their expanded BRICS partners (Brazil, Russia, India, China, and new members like Iran) have become the willing providers. So, a country traditionally aligned with the West (UK, Europe, and the USA) has now aligned itself with Russia, China, and Iran, and maligns the West in its election rhetoric. Indeed, Iran is believed to have paid millions to the ANC to take Israel before the International Court of Justice. No wonder the USA is debating removing AGOA privileges from South Africa.

Which brings us to the question of why did the ANC become antisemitic? Some will argue it is not, merely anti-Zionist and anti-Israel, based on the historic support for the Nationalist Government by Israel during the Apartheid years. But this no longer feels true, and South African Jews, like everywhere, have become more apprehensive and vigilant. There is no question that Jews can currently walk the streets of the major South African cities with a greater sense of safety than they can, for example, walk the West End of London on a Saturday, or the campuses of Harvard and MIT. Question the average citizen on the street, and they are unlikely to be haters of Jews. But the ANC government is actively changing the narrative and the reason is transparent. Stay in Power. With the May 29 election in sight and the fear that they may lose, they are good vote counters. With nearly 1 million Muslims of whom about 3-400,000 are voters, would you woo them, or South Africa’s decimated Jewish community of around 18,000 potential voters? Simple, a cold-hearted grab for votes, the human damage be damned. Hamas leaders are living with and feted by ANC officials.

Not that we are we looking forward to returning to an ugly election season in the States with potentially an even more catastrophic result. Whoever comes into power in South Africa really only impacts South Africa. The election result in the USA could turn world history on its head.

Mauritius is looking ever more attractive. We plan to check it out in June.

THE END OF THE SEASON.

 

Hopefully this discussion can be continued come the end of 2024.

Have a wonderful mid-2024.

As ever
Wulf
Cape Town, April 14, 2024.

23 Responses

  1. Thanks again Wulf for a fabulous photoessay.
    The story of politics in South Africa is incredibly depressing. Thieving politicians using Democracy to rob the nation, siding with Tyranny to get all the more loot is a horrifying constant theme in all Democracies, clearly so here in the US. The brain drain in South Africa was amazing to hear about, as is the re-alignment of South Africa with the great Tyrants of our era. Cry the beloved country, we can shout in both our nations.

    The stories of your travels, and the photos of our great mammal cousins are always so moving. Thank you for these.

    One last comment, your email sharing this letter said, we better buckle up in the US and S Africa. I don’t know about S Africa, but was all know of course that Democracy is still damn strong in the US, and we each have the power to defeat Tyranny here. It threatens, it could crush Democracy, but we have more votes, it remains on our shoulders to get those votes cast. It can be done, so once we buckle up, let’s get to work!

  2. One more. On S Africa at the World Court. Your essay reveals that Iran may have given millions of dollars to bring charges of genocide against Israel. I had to add how horrifying it is to see Russia, China, and Iran, of all nations (!), buying the cover of a nation such as South Africa, a nation that has been a beacon of the humanity of people of color. The heady days when Nelson Mandela came to power and apartheid ended gave each of us hope that one day color could end as an instrument of oppression. The tragedy of corruption ended that dream, for now in S Africa, but the moral power of a place where apartheid was defeated remains in the global mind.
    Now think about a nation right now putting millions into concentration camps purely on the basis of their religion (China and the Uighurs), or another actively trying to wipe out any trace of the largest nation in Europe (Russia and Ukraine), and then a third dreaming of a theocracy that kills all unbelievers (Iran) effectively stealing the moral power of South Africa’s history to do their deeds.

    What a terrible state South Africa has descended to.

  3. Wulf thank you for sharing these memories, experiences and thoughts. I have a new entry on my animal bucket list – the pangolin, and I cannot imagine holding the tusks of an elephant! Your pictures of Graf Delaire brought back fond memories of my time there with Nicole and the art by William Kittredge. It’s a tragedy that all that beauty and wonder is overseen by a government that abandons its role as keepers of the country and its people. There seems to be a shameful tide of self-interest and greed that threatens all that makes life beautiful. Though it can be difficult to live with eyes wide open to those threats, it’s a gift to still see the beauty. My daughter will spend two weeks in SA on a school trip in June and will share in that wonder.

    Warmest regards to you and Moira,

    Pauline

  4. Wulf,
    Wonderful and insightful report. What stops the ANC from stealing all the wealth. I feel the worst is yet to come.

  5. Thank you for showing the beauty of South Africa as well as its corruption.
    I will miss your letters over the summer but I know they will return next year.
    THANKS AGAIN—Isaac

  6. Thanks very much, Wulf. As always, your commentary and photos are informative, interesting and professional.
    Just one point – I haven’t checked, but believe that SA’s Jewish population is well above 18 000, probably about 45 000.
    Wish you and Moira all the best for a happy and healthy year.
    Kind regards
    Arnie and Joceline.

  7. Wulf you and Moira are having a marvelous time.
    Makes us all jealous.
    Excellent photos.
    Your letter is always uplifting.
    See you soon.
    Bob.

  8. Wulf,
    Grateful for this extraordinary missive and spectacular photos. Of course, your notes are so much more than a travel journal and only wish we could all leave politics behind for the natural beauty and special times with family that you share with us –
    Warm wishes,
    Jan

  9. Thanks so much for your fabulous travelogue and magnificent photos. Thoroughly enjoyed it all
    and found your descriptions most interesting and revealing.
    Enjoy the rest of your stay. Travel safe.
    Love to you and Moira,
    Lucille & Philip

  10. You look happy, and obviously you, and yours had a great time. Thank you for sharing the letter and photos.
    Regards, and Happy Passover
    George

  11. Good luck for the USA side of your life
    Our problems are maybe smaller than what face!
    Love your photos

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